"Until the village of Martes, the walk was fairly uneventful. Martes was an intriguing little village though, and seemed to promise more for the camino..." (From diary)

8:09am A bit further on beyond this bend I had to backtrack, although as I realised later, I still would have arrived at Martes following this road. I arrived at an intersection just beyond this point, and there were no arrows - a clear indication that I had missed an arrow somewhere. I retraced my steps, and found the arrow about a kilometer back, afterwhich I headed along a track to the village of Martes.

Berdun, the town that was ever before me on the earlier part of this morning's walk, but to which I never arrived, as the camino led me away from it.

At 8:30am I arrived at the village of Martes. Too early for any activity its seemed, as the morning was still a little cold.

No life in the village at this hour - so not a possibility of a coffee break.

On the edge of the village at 8:35am - the impressive Church of Martes.

10 minutes on, and the landscape seems to head out into more fields and open plains. I have been feeling a little unconfident about arrows this morning - they have been lacking at times. As I drew upon this intersection, the sign bearing the arrow had obviously been knocked down and replanted - it could have originally pointed in either direction. I decided to trust its direction at this moment, straight ahead, and not along the more inviting continuation of the road as it rounded to the right - my confidence was rewarded.

9:06am An impressive landscape accompanied me this morning - I find myself, in this isolation beginning to think about what I have left behind in Peru.

At 9:10am I arrive at the Sobresecho ravine. No choice it seems but to take off the shoes and socks and walk across the stream.
"Had to take the shoes off to cross the ravine at Sobresecho - cold water, but no drama..." (From diary)

Having crossed the ravine bare foot, there is no choice according to the arrow with regard to where once must walk.

For a while after crossing the Sobresechos ravine, the terrain becomes quite gravely and barren looking.

Mianos comes into view, and looks very inviting on this rather fresh morning.

At 9:44am, this was Mianos I suspect, and Artienda was still to come. Either way, the camino skirted both places. This place tempted me for a couple of kilometres - I even contemplated a coffee break, but the arrows diverted my steps at the last minute.

Whether this town on the hill was Artieda or not, I never reached it - the camino directed me well away from it.
"The camino skirted the two villages of Mianos and Artienda which looked really enchanting perched on their respective hilltops..." (From diary)

10:55am The sky is looking seriously threatening as rain begins to fall. It is becoming cold, and I know there is still over an hour to go.

11:24am With under an hour to go on this morning's walk, I am afraid that the rain may be going to set in. I am now off the road and following a track which doesn't look all that promising, and where yellow arrows seem almost nonexistent.
"The last 5 ks became a bit difficult because of both the rain and the terrain..." (From diary)

11:30am About 40 minutes from Ruesta, the camino becomes quite rough and challenging as I dodge around trees dripping with wet after a fair amount of drizzle.

Not long after midday Ruesta comes into view. One cannot quite believe the image that is presented upon approach to this town.
"Then suddenly, like yesterday, Ruesta appears..." (From diary)

12:11pm Entering Ruesta, and not sure what to make of it!

...It appears that Ruesta was once a very important frontier fortress and village close to the border of Navarra. Below the town, the damming of the Yesa Reservoir effected its livelihood, though one would think by appearances that it has been abandoned before 1959. Much of the town is closed to pedestrians for safety reasons. It would certainly be a spot to visit in the spring or autumn...(From diary)

An interesting detail which has stood the test of time.

Nearly all of the town is in ruins, but some parts are in worse repair than others.

At 4:30pm in the afternoon, looking back out of the town towards the Yesa Reservoir which flooded the farming land about Ruesta in 1959, leading to the town's demise.

RUESTA TO SANGUESA

Tuesday 23rd February (22kilometers 4hrs 10 mins)
I am sitting in the Restaurant "1920" in Sanguaesa, just finishing a delightful lunch, wine included (half litre) all for 10 euros - 3 courses. I must remember to order "manitos de cerdo" next time (pig's trotters). Arrived here about 12:10pm, having left Ruesta at ? In part, a very nice walk, but a good 5 ks uphill to start with, including a very steep two kilometers through pine forest. After that I encountered a lot of mud for a good kilometer or so, which slowed down the process quite a deal. (from diary)

Leaving Ruesta at 7:00am in the morning.

7:06am Ermita de Santiago Apostle.

7:39am about 4 ks into the walk and after a pretty constant ascent, a view back towards the Yesa Reservoir.

8:10am The climb seems to finish and the road opens up before me.

8:12am A good clear arrow - a reassuring sign as the walk begins in earnest this morning.

Feeling a little cold this morning.

8:14am

8:33amA fairly barren landscape, and certainly a very solitary walk at this point.
...[However] by that stage Navarra was in sight, and a wonderful vista began to open up before me. (from diary)

8:46am Panorama towards Undues de Lerda.

8:56am The village of Undues de Lerda comes into view. The only village on the camino this morning.

About a kilometer out of the village, some wonderfully recovered original roman road.

9:09am Entering the village of Undues de Lerda, almost 12ks after setting out this morning.
...Despite hard going I was in Undues de Lerda before 10:30am (over 11 ks of walking done)...(from diary)

9:11am The old Church of Undues de Lerda.
...An interesting village, including the remains of a roman road over part of the entrance to the village. Much of the village has been restored, and would have offered a great atmosphere for a stay over. A lovely old church at its heart...(from diary)

9:47am
...Kept moving on, mainly on a dirt road after one or two kilometers of tracks. For a kilometer the road turned very muddy following the passing of a flock of sheep. Made the going slow...(from diary)
It was during this part of the morning that I overtook my first real pilgrim on the camino, Alberto, with whom I would speak briefly in Sanguesa, and share a meal with in Montreal.

9:48am Officially entering Navarra.
...[However] finally emerged with a stone indicating my arrival into Navarra...(from diary)

9:57am the road becomes more welcoming.
...Fairly straight forward journey over the final 6 ks to Sanguesa, which turned out to be a bit of a disappointment at first...(from diary)

10:00am The chalk cliffs in the background reminded me of the walk from Puente la Reina to Los Arcos before. I now felt as though I was back in Navarra, and happy to be here.

10:05am. In the background a farmer is moving sheep. I had encountered their footprints and the mess they'd made earlier, and despite the fact that this had caused me angst and extra effort earlier, there was now something very peaceful and restful watching this activity which was both earnest and lackadaisical all at the same time.

At 12:06 I arrive at what was once the gate of the town of Sanguesa, the only part of the ancient wall left. From here the arrows seemed to disappear, so I had to continue by instinct. The centre was not far away.

The Church of El Salvador, an impressive construction in terms of bulk, but it seemed unfinished.


After wandering the streets for a while, I came across the albergue which was locked, and not opening for another couple of hours, so I decided to look for a hostel. There were none very obviously situated in the heart of the town.

The Church of Santiago.


The door of the Church, above which the image of Santiago welcomes the pilgrim. I remember enjoying the atmosphere within this Church as I sat to pray for a while.

The Church of Santa Maria de Sanguesa with its impressive facade and beautiful Gothic octagonal tower. I wandered past here and over the bridge leading out of town to find a hostel on the other side of the Aragon river.

The beautifully carved archway of the door of the Church, Santa Maria de Sanguesa.

Heading back over the bridge from the hostel I finally booked into to look for some lunch at 1:30pm, after a shower and clean up.


A detail of the archway of Santa Maria de Sanuguesa. Well worn figures that have been keeping watch at the door for a century or two!